Saturday, September 13, 2014

Carpeting

I took me 2 days to cut and fit all of the padding for the inset firewall and four of the carpet pieces (No BOSS, and short 7 hour work days.

 
 
Here we are in the middle of the whole show. I hope to have all the carpet cut to take to the upholsterer on Monday for binding with the 2 1/2" strips I cut from from the leftover interior vinyl. Everything but the main floor carpet/pad will be glued in with DAP High Temp Landau Top adhesive.
 
In the removeable carpet floor of the 34', the upholstery shop velcro attached the floor carpet to the fixed firewall carpet and that is what we are going to do here.

Model A Carpet

The top went well, at 22 cents per hour, I could make a bundle doing these. Since I was able to buy the Harrtz material and matching molding, I went to my suppliers and bought more of the same material and the last 25' of vinyl molding for the '34 Chevy.......just in case I have another cerebral incident!

I'm on a roll so let's carpet this jewel.

The first step is to cover the tunnel since the floor carpet will be bound and fit around the tunnel. The floor is made to be removed which means that the carpet cannot be attached to the firewall in front.

I cut a pattern for the padding to cover the tunnel and from that I cut the padding. VOID, on curves the pattern is 1" too small. The padding was way too short. Good wakeup call for me to pay more attention to layout.
 The length of the pad was
correct but the dimension over the arch was 1" to short.

You cannot believe the pattern on a curved surface with a thick material.

I increased the width 2" and the length 1" for the carpet since it needs to lat flat for 1/4" around the tunnel. Trim three times for fit.


Patterns, patterns, and patterns of the patterns. Flat surfaces are true except on corners and bends.

Somewhere along the line during the interior, I picked up a couple of yards of white 1/8" slick foam. This material is perfect for patterns. It's easy to cut and mark with a fine line pen. It bends and flexes and does not rip when in and out of the car. No stretch and much easy to use than construction paper.


I am not sure what I am doing wrong, but cutting the jute padding with Weiss scissors (resharpened twice) generates the most amazing blisters on the right ring finger. I think I may quit this job and go home!!

 

Monday, September 8, 2014

Model A Top Information

More clarification on the hardware for my top installation.

For any aluminum trim or base, a fixture is required to bend the material around the rear corners.

I found that there is a small amount of springback in the base when bent to the exact shape of the corner. You need to cut the mandrel to about 1/4"+ tighter radius than the actual corner.

Attempting to tighten the radius during installation is BAD...very very BAD. Relaxing or opening the radius during installation is easy and smooth.

The fixture is made from some remnant 1/4" plexiglass that Vic gave me last year. This is the ONLY bend (2ea) that needs to be done prior to installation. The slight curves of the perimeter are handled with little effort during the installation. After bending the corner, I marked, predrilled and deburred the the base to correspond to all of the alternate holes in the top groove.


This is the actual molding installed on the aluminum base. Neat stuff that seems to no longer be made in colors........I was very fortunate to find this. The base of the base is 0.250" wide.

There was some suggestion of a heat gun for the installation. I would say no since I believe a warm top and a 150-180 water bath would be safer and easier to use.

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Blood, Sweat, and Tears

After a long, long, HOT day I think we are close to the end! All that is left is to wash the blood, sweat and tears off of my "A"

I hope you like it 'cause I love it when a plan comes together!

 

It's Hot out here

Now comes the fun part. Clean the vinyl trim and lay it in the sun (get it HOT). This is Vegas and 105 is normal. Back the car into the afternoon sun. When the painter's tape starts falling off, you are just about warm enough.

Angle cut one end for the miter and begin easing the molding on to the base. I don't think this would work cold.
Ease one side of the molding on the base and push over to snap in place. I recommend pushing back towards the starting point as you go in case some shrinkage occurs in cold weather.

Cut your miters carefully 1/8-1/4" long. Push back to fit and it will expand hard into the 90 joint.

1930 Coupe top trim

A sandwich fixture (to hold it flat) is needed to bend the back corners. This base comes in 72" lengths and you will need 3. Buy an extra or two for practice.

The top wood is predrilled in every hole (230). Every other hole is used to hold the fabric down and the alternate holes for the base. I used #4  1/2" stainless flat head for both applications. Pick up 20 3/4" as you may need a few. #19-1/2" wire nails across the front will be buried in the fabric under the aluminum base.


My start is in the middle of the rear. be sure to leave a long enough back leg to trim to fit.

The aluminum base is about 7/16" wide and covers almost all of the silicon fillet.
Just lightly pull it into position, find the hole with your needle and snug for now.


As you tighten the silicon  fillet will level out and variations in the base can be controlled with tightening.

 






I purchased a package of thin cutting sheets in Wal Mart for about six bucks. These are absolutely wonderfull in the kitchen and the only way to go when trying to protect stuff on this job while using cutters or saws. Slide'em under the base and you can prevent damage to the car.


The Model A Coupe

It seems that the big issue with the 30/31 coupe top insert is the groove on the sides and rear of the opening........ how to trim. I'm not into nailing an aluminum molding 130 times and then beating the molding closed with a V block-no! Hidem will not do a 2 1/2" radius curve without buckling.

My answer (the plan) is to use landau top molding. This is an aluminum base and a vinyl trim that snaps over the base. The groove is unacceptable since the base sits in the groove and the molding cannot be attached.

First you trim the top fabric below the level of the paint just outside the screws.




Next you mask a 1/2" opening from the metal edge to the fabric. Use fine line vinyl tape and 1" painters tape with the 1/4" fine line
on top of the blue on the inner and outer edges.

Using a small filler plastic, I spread the clear silicon over the painted edge/metal/fabric groove.

This is a mess! After field testing the material on the fabric and the paint to insure no reaction we are ready to begin. I used clear DEVCON home silcone adhesive #12045.
You must be fast and have plenty of paper towels as it gets all over everthing. Do 1/3 of the car at a time, 12" per pull and then get all of the related tape off in less than 8 minutes. Do the rear first. Clean-up with mineral spirits.

When you make a mistake (and you will!!) , DO NOT go back. Disregard the bad spot and come back and repair it the next day. Going back to smooth your error in more than 2 minutes and you are dealing with unmanageable sticky gummy stuff (how do I know that??????). Get the tape off NOW and you will have a clean line. Wait until you are all done and the tape will bring the silicon fillet off with it.

This step seals the groove and provides the correct base height for the aluminum. Do not be too concerned over how perfectly flat this fillet is, the aluminum base levels it as you screw it down.  
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