Friday, March 20, 2015

Tire Truing

Does anyone remember taking the out of round tires (especially recaps) to the tire shop and having them spin cut the tires with an electric cutter to make them round??

That's what I am doing with the Model A rear tires, only I'm using ASPHALT!! I think its working, and I know its FUN!!

I actually had two issues with the "A" that needed to be taken care of. The first was a carburetor that had a terrible off-idle stumble. I spent days on this off and on and could not win. I finally went to a buddy's and borrowed another Edelbrock. After rebuilding, bigger jets, smaller rods and drilling the out the accelerator pump nozzles to .043", I had excellent nice. Mine now!!

Then there was the rebuilt?? turbo 350 that would not shift. I bought the
book, a Transgo shift programing kit and tore it apart. I replaced a junk valve body and a worn out governor with units out of my core and away we go! It took some tinkering with the governor springs but now we shift hard at 4200 RPM under load all the time, every time!

 I know two old farts in L.A. who might remember a car that looked a lot like this at Fontana in 1963. No purple headers now, and I KNOW I can still take that Olds hydro!!  A new project ahead.

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Quieter Now

Picked up the carpet pieces from ABC and I am pleased with the binding. I provided the cut carpet and a pattern of instructions and everything came out very well.

The main issue here was to provide the ability to remove the front floor if necessary. The carpet is retained by 2 upholstered snaps on each side and velcroed to the firewall carpet.

It looked so nice that I didn't want to use it! Off to the store for El Cheapo rubber mats to be cut and fitted to the flat portion of the floor.

It's coming along as the details are worked out!

Saturday, September 13, 2014


I took me 2 days to cut and fit all of the padding for the inset firewall and four of the carpet pieces (No BOSS, and short 7 hour work days.

Here we are in the middle of the whole show. I hope to have all the carpet cut to take to the upholsterer on Monday for binding with the 2 1/2" strips I cut from from the leftover interior vinyl. Everything but the main floor carpet/pad will be glued in with DAP High Temp Landau Top adhesive.
In the removeable carpet floor of the 34', the upholstery shop velcro attached the floor carpet to the fixed firewall carpet and that is what we are going to do here.

Model A Carpet

The top went well, at 22 cents per hour, I could make a bundle doing these. Since I was able to buy the Harrtz material and matching molding, I went to my suppliers and bought more of the same material and the last 25' of vinyl molding for the '34 Chevy.......just in case I have another cerebral incident!

I'm on a roll so let's carpet this jewel.

The first step is to cover the tunnel since the floor carpet will be bound and fit around the tunnel. The floor is made to be removed which means that the carpet cannot be attached to the firewall in front.

I cut a pattern for the padding to cover the tunnel and from that I cut the padding. VOID, on curves the pattern is 1" too small. The padding was way too short. Good wakeup call for me to pay more attention to layout.
 The length of the pad was
correct but the dimension over the arch was 1" to short.

You cannot believe the pattern on a curved surface with a thick material.

I increased the width 2" and the length 1" for the carpet since it needs to lat flat for 1/4" around the tunnel. Trim three times for fit.

Patterns, patterns, and patterns of the patterns. Flat surfaces are true except on corners and bends.

Somewhere along the line during the interior, I picked up a couple of yards of white 1/8" slick foam. This material is perfect for patterns. It's easy to cut and mark with a fine line pen. It bends and flexes and does not rip when in and out of the car. No stretch and much easy to use than construction paper.

I am not sure what I am doing wrong, but cutting the jute padding with Weiss scissors (resharpened twice) generates the most amazing blisters on the right ring finger. I think I may quit this job and go home!!


Monday, September 8, 2014

Model A Top Information

More clarification on the hardware for my top installation.

For any aluminum trim or base, a fixture is required to bend the material around the rear corners.

I found that there is a small amount of springback in the base when bent to the exact shape of the corner. You need to cut the mandrel to about 1/4"+ tighter radius than the actual corner.

Attempting to tighten the radius during installation is BAD...very very BAD. Relaxing or opening the radius during installation is easy and smooth.

The fixture is made from some remnant 1/4" plexiglass that Vic gave me last year. This is the ONLY bend (2ea) that needs to be done prior to installation. The slight curves of the perimeter are handled with little effort during the installation. After bending the corner, I marked, predrilled and deburred the the base to correspond to all of the alternate holes in the top groove.

This is the actual molding installed on the aluminum base. Neat stuff that seems to no longer be made in colors........I was very fortunate to find this. The base of the base is 0.250" wide.

There was some suggestion of a heat gun for the installation. I would say no since I believe a warm top and a 150-180 water bath would be safer and easier to use.

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Blood, Sweat, and Tears

After a long, long, HOT day I think we are close to the end! All that is left is to wash the blood, sweat and tears off of my "A"

I hope you like it 'cause I love it when a plan comes together!


It's Hot out here

Now comes the fun part. Clean the vinyl trim and lay it in the sun (get it HOT). This is Vegas and 105 is normal. Back the car into the afternoon sun. When the painter's tape starts falling off, you are just about warm enough.

Angle cut one end for the miter and begin easing the molding on to the base. I don't think this would work cold.
Ease one side of the molding on the base and push over to snap in place. I recommend pushing back towards the starting point as you go in case some shrinkage occurs in cold weather.

Cut your miters carefully 1/8-1/4" long. Push back to fit and it will expand hard into the 90 joint.